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The Care and Preservation of Swords

by John Arlett, Sword Advisor, Wilkinson Sword (date unknown)

Introduction

Many tales of woe arrive at the Sword Centre, where we run a full refurbishment service. Sometimes swords are sent to us which just require a light polish and perhaps replating, but others have been severely mis-treated. One of the worst I’ve seen was a basket–hilted broadsword; it looked okay but could not be drawn from its nickel–plated scabbard. The owner had sent the scabbard to an electro–plater who had replated it without first dismantling it and removing the wooden liners! The sword went back into the scabbard, and a month or so later the blade was a rusted wreck. This was an extreme case, but swords are easily damaged if certain basic rules are not observed.

Most swords that we refurbish are intended for parade or other ceremonial use, so we endeavour to restore them to "as–new" condition. If the blade has to be polished and re–embossed we can do this using the original master plates used when the sword was first made (assuming it is a Wilkinson) even if this was a century or more ago. Similarly, if the grip of a military sword has been badly worn or damaged, we can recover it in the traditional way with shark or ray skin as used on most of our current range of military swords.

However, some weapons are intended to be kept as antiques and items of historical interest, and in such cases I usually advise the minimum degree of refurbishment so as to retain as much as possible of the original finish, whilst arresting the process of deterioration.

New or old, the problem is to preserve the sword and prevent deterioration. Most of what follows is just common sense, though my comments on oil or grease may surprise some readers.

Blades

Most military swords have blades of polished steel which is unplated. The steel is high–carbon heat–treated sword steel, which will stain and rust if handled carelessly. Fingerprints are particularly harmful and, if not quickly polished off with a soft, dry cloth, will very soon leave an indelible mark. If the blade has to be touched you should always use the back of your hand, or wear gloves. Mention this (tactfully!) to your friends when you show the sword to them.

When a new or refurbished sword leaves our workshops we apply a coating of petroleum–based jelly to the blade. This is purely a short-term protection for transit the blade must be cleaned and waxed on a regular basis.

Many people coat their blades with grease or oil as a permanent protection. I do not recommend this for several reasons. Oil and greases attract dust, which will absorb moisture and cause rust, and may cause scratching to the blade as it is drawn in and out of the scabbard. These materials look messy, will stain lined scabbards, can evaporate or rub off, do nothing for brass or leather etc, and are generally bad news. Petroleum jelly is only suitable for short term storage, since many of the commercially available brands are not water resistant, and will absorb water especially if in a moisture laden atmosphere, as in the UK.

The best solution is to use wax polish. Any good quality paste wax is suitable, including car wax (but use one which does not leave a white deposit in the crevices). Synthetic waxes sometimes contain acid, so must be avoided. Wax polish improves the appearance, can be used on a variety of materials, resists dust and fingerprints, will not rub off, stays where its put and gives long–lasting protection.

Whichever method you choose to protect your blade with, it is essential to check the blade on a regular monthly basis, and to rub off and re–apply the coating.

Swords In Scabbards and Storage Bags

Swords are often stored in their scabbards. This is fine provided that the blade has been well waxed, that the scabbard is dry, and that the sword and scabbard are stored in a dry, cool, dust–free environment. The sword is sometimes complete with a sword bag. These bags can be of plastic or leather with a chamois lining; they are intended only for carrying the sword from place to place – not for storage purposes. Chamois leather is particularly efficient at collecting moisture which it then imparts to the sword, and I have seen many swords ruined by being kept in chamois bags. Keep the bag separate, and make sure it is thoroughly aired before using it to transport the sword.

If a blade has become stained or rusted, it can only be restored by removing metal. Light surface marks can usually be polished out by using a piece of card soaked in metal polish; but rusting or pitting will require mechanical polishing which can spoil an embossed or etched blade.

Hilts

Hilts can be of iron, steel or brass, and may be gold or nickel-plated. Grips may be of wood, leather or fish–skin covered, or wire bound. Sometimes ivory side plates are used. Natural wax polish can be used on all these materials with good results. Do not use an abrasive of liquid metal polish on any plated parts – particularly on gold plating.

Ongoing Maintenance

Finally, and very importantly, do not store your sword away and forget about it. Take it out of its scabbard every few weeks and examine it carefully, re–waxing if required. All sorts of evils can befall it, no matter how carefully it has been put away, so take pleasure in looking at it and giving it regular TLC – you owe it to your descendants!

Editor’s Note: We are grateful to Art Kuiper who sent this text on to us. He says that he received it from the old Wilkinson Sword Company, who for centuries manufactured naval and other swords (before they made razor blades). The company has gone out of business and the trade name is now foreign–owned.


To quote from this article please cite:

Arlett, John (2012) The Care and Preservation of Swords. Nauticapedia.ca 2012. http://nauticapedia.ca/Articles/Sword_Care.php

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